{"id":1409,"date":"2026-10-21T21:49:02","date_gmt":"2026-10-21T21:49:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/ro\/?page_id=1409"},"modified":"2026-10-22T05:43:47","modified_gmt":"2026-10-22T05:43:47","slug":"journal","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/tr\/journal\/","title":{"rendered":"G\u00fcnl\u00fck"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"byj\"><header class=\"byj-hero\"><div class=\"byj-hero-img\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_eu_arhiva2.webp\" alt=\"C\u0103t\u0103lin D. Constantin, Manast\u0131r Ar\u015fivi\u2019nde bir cam levhay\u0131 inceliyor\"><\/div><div class=\"byj-hero-txt\"><p class=\"byj-kicker\">Ar\u015fiv ve saha g\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc<\/p><h1>Arka plan ne g\u00f6steriyor<\/h1><p class=\"byj-lead\">Manaki karde\u015flerin foto\u011fraflar\u0131 \u00e7er\u00e7evede bitmiyor. Arka plandaki bir ayr\u0131nt\u0131 bir soru soruyor. Bir ar\u015fiv, bir da\u011f ya da yolda kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131lan bir insan ona cevap veriyor, bazen bir y\u00fczy\u0131l sonra. Ke\u015fifleri burada, geldik\u00e7e kaydediyorum.<\/p><\/div><\/header><nav class=\"byj-index\"><a href=\"#londra\"><span>01<\/span><b>Londra, 1907<\/b><i>Tiyatronun \u00f6n\u00fcndeki adam<\/i><\/a><a href=\"#bitola-1909\"><span>02<\/span><b>Manast\u0131r, 1909<\/b><i>Ayn\u0131 y\u0131l do\u011fmu\u015f iki subay<\/i><\/a><a href=\"#plovdiv\"><span>03<\/span><b>Filibe, 1916\u20131919<\/b><i>\u00c7er\u00e7evelerde ne vard\u0131<\/i><\/a><a href=\"#sliven\"><span>04<\/span><b>\u0130slimye<\/b><i>Da\u011flar uymuyordu<\/i><\/a><a href=\"#laista\"><span>05<\/span><b>Laista, 1898<\/b><i>Ayn\u0131 dakika, \u00fc\u00e7 \u00fclkede<\/i><\/a><a href=\"#korce\"><span>06<\/span><b>G\u00f6rice<\/b><i>Bir \u00e7an kulesi ve bir kule<\/i><\/a><a href=\"#bitola-1911\"><span>07<\/span><b>Manast\u0131r, 1911<\/b><i>Tek bir ziyaret i\u00e7in bir ev<\/i><\/a><\/nav><section class=\"byj-ch\" id=\"londra\"><header class=\"byj-head\"><span class=\"byj-no\">01<\/span><span class=\"byj-stamp\">Londra \u00b7 1907<\/span><h2>Tiyatronun \u00f6n\u00fcndeki adam<\/h2><p class=\"byj-where\">Manaki ar\u015fivi, Manast\u0131r<\/p><\/header><div class=\"byj-scrolly\"><div class=\"byj-fig\"><div class=\"byj-frame\"><div class=\"byj-stage\"><img data-k=\"london\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_london.webp\" alt=\"K\u0131r\u0131k cam negatif: Yanaki Manaki, Londra\u2019da Criterion Theatre \u00f6n\u00fcnde\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><span class=\"byj-ring\"><\/span><\/div><\/div><p class=\"byj-cap\"><\/p><\/div><div class=\"byj-text\"><p data-f=\"london|50|50|1\" data-cap=\"Cam negatif, Manaki ar\u015fivi, Manast\u0131r.\">Manast\u0131r\u2019daki cam negatifler aras\u0131nda biri \u00f6tekilere uymuyor. Be\u015f par\u00e7aya k\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, bir zaman yeniden yap\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f; kaybolan k\u0131r\u0131klar\u0131n yerinde siyah bo\u015fluklar var. Kald\u0131r\u0131mda melon \u015fapkal\u0131, koyu paltolu bir adam duruyor, koltu\u011funun alt\u0131nda bir \u015fey var. B\u00fct\u00fcn resimde ne bir fes, ne bir kubbe, ne de bir minare var. Arkas\u0131nda kemerli, s\u00fctunlu, ni\u015flerinde heykeller olan bir cephe; yan\u0131nda bir daktilo b\u00fcrosu ve bekleyen bir fayton. Tabelalar \u0130ngilizce. Manaki ar\u015fivinde Balkanlar\u0131n hi\u00e7 g\u00f6r\u00fcnmedi\u011fi \u00e7ok az foto\u011fraftan biri.<\/p><p data-f=\"london|47|80|2.6\" data-cap=\"Yanaki Manaki, kald\u0131r\u0131mda.\">Adam Yanaki. Hayat\u0131n\u0131 de\u011fi\u015ftirecek cihaz i\u00e7in Londra\u2019ya gitti\u011fi biliniyordu: seri numaras\u0131 300 olan bir Bioscope film kameras\u0131; bug\u00fcn Manast\u0131r\u2019daki belgesel film festivali ad\u0131n\u0131 ondan al\u0131yor. Ne zaman gitti\u011fi bilinmiyordu. Ansiklopediler 1905 diyor, baz\u0131 tarih\u00e7iler 1906.<\/p><p data-f=\"london|50|64|3.4\" data-cap=\"Charles Wyndham \u00b7 Criterion Theatre \u00b7 Miss Mary Moore.\">Cevap duvarlardayd\u0131. Afi\u015fleri cam\u0131n \u00e7atlaklar\u0131 aras\u0131ndan par\u00e7a par\u00e7a b\u00fcy\u00fctt\u00fcm. Kap\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcndeki \u015feritte <em>Charles Wyndham<\/em> ve <em>Miss Mary Moore<\/em>, tiyatronun m\u00fcd\u00fcr\u00fc ve ba\u015frol oyuncusu. Yan\u0131ndaki levhada <em>Criterion Theatre<\/em>.<\/p><p data-f=\"london|52|56|3.6\" data-cap=\"\u201cThe Liars\u201d, Henry Arthur Jones\u2019un komedisi.\">Giri\u015fin \u00fcst\u00fcnde, b\u00fcy\u00fck harflerle oyunun ad\u0131: <em>The Liars<\/em>. Yalanc\u0131lar.<\/p><p data-f=\"london|50|50|1.15\" data-cap=\"Criterion Theatre, Piccadilly Circus, 1907.\">Henry Arthur Jones\u2019un komedisi Criterion\u2019da iki kez sahnelendi. \u0130lki 1897\u2019de, ba\u015fka bir kadroyla. Yanaki o s\u0131rada Yanya\u2019dayd\u0131 ve foto\u011frafa yeni ba\u015fl\u0131yordu. \u0130kinci kez <em>The Liars<\/em> 13 Nisan 1907\u2019de geri d\u00f6nd\u00fc ve y\u00fcz gece oynad\u0131; 15 Ekim\u2019de yerini <em>The Mollusc<\/em> ald\u0131. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.criterion-theatre.co.uk\/documentdownload.axd?documentresourceid=3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tiyatronun ar\u015fivi<\/a> foto\u011fraf\u0131 Nisan ile Ekim 1907 aras\u0131na yerle\u015ftirdi.<\/p><p data-f=\"london|42|62|1.8\" data-cap=\"Rupert Street 48\u2019e d\u00f6rt dakika.\">Geriye harita kal\u0131yordu. 1907\u2019de Bioscope kameralar\u0131n\u0131 \u00fcreten ve satan Charles Urban\u2019\u0131n \u015firketi Rupert Street 48 numaradayd\u0131. Kap\u0131s\u0131ndan Criterion\u2019un giri\u015fine y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek d\u00f6rt dakika. Yanaki Piccadilly\u2019de kaybolmu\u015f bir turist de\u011fil. Kameras\u0131n\u0131 ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00fckk\u00e2ndan birka\u00e7 ad\u0131m \u00f6tede.<\/p><p>Buradan sinema tarihinin bir tarihi yer de\u011fi\u015ftiriyor. Karde\u015flerin ilk filmi, b\u00fcy\u00fckanneleri Maia Despa\u2019n\u0131n Avdella\u2019da y\u00fcn e\u011firdi\u011fi film, 1905 tarihli olamaz. Yanaki\u2019nin Londra\u2019dan d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnden sonra, 1907\u2019de \u00e7ekildi; Emil \u021a\u00eercomnicu\u2019nun da 2024\u2019te yay\u0131mlanan <em>Ioan D. Manakia \u00een documente din arhiva Societ\u0103\u021bii de Cultur\u0103 Macedo-Rom\u00e2n\u0103 (1906\u20131948)<\/em> adl\u0131 kitab\u0131nda \u00f6nerdi\u011fi gibi. B\u00fcy\u00fck olas\u0131l\u0131kla yaz sonunda, Avdella Ulahlar\u0131 s\u00fcr\u00fcleri k\u0131\u015flaklara indirmeden \u00f6nce \u00e7ekildi.<\/p><\/div><\/div><figure class=\"byj-film\"><video src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_despa.mp4\" muted loop playsinline preload=\"metadata\"><\/video><figcaption>Maia Despa Avdella\u2019da y\u00fcn e\u011firiyor. Manaki karde\u015flerin filmi, 1907. Kaynak: Kuzey Makedonya Sinematek\u2019i.<\/figcaption><\/figure><p class=\"byj-coda\">Yalanlar \u00fczerine bir komedi, Londra\u2019da y\u00fcz gece oynayarak, ansiklopedilerin bir y\u00fczy\u0131ld\u0131r tekrarlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir tarihi d\u00fczeltti.<\/p><\/section><section class=\"byj-ch\" id=\"bitola-1909\"><header class=\"byj-head\"><span class=\"byj-no\">02<\/span><span class=\"byj-stamp\">Manast\u0131r \u00b7 1909<\/span><h2>Ayn\u0131 y\u0131l do\u011fmu\u015f iki subay<\/h2><p class=\"byj-where\">Devlet Ar\u015fivi, Manast\u0131r \u00b7 14\u201315 Eyl\u00fcl 2026<\/p><\/header><div class=\"byj-scrolly\"><div class=\"byj-fig\"><div class=\"byj-frame\"><div class=\"byj-stage\"><img data-k=\"s1417\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_1417-scaled.webp\" alt=\"Manast\u0131r Asker\u00ee \u0130dadisi \u00f6\u011frencileri, levha 1417\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><img data-k=\"s515\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_515.webp\" alt=\"Alt\u0131 gen\u00e7 subay, levha 515\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><img data-k=\"st1\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_st1-scaled.webp\" alt=\"Von der Goltz heyetinin Manast\u0131r istasyonuna var\u0131\u015f\u0131\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><img data-k=\"tent\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_tent-scaled.webp\" alt=\"Manevrada \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde subaylar\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><img data-k=\"st3\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_st3-scaled.webp\" alt=\"Manast\u0131r istasyonu, bando ve heyet\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><span class=\"byj-ring\"><\/span><\/div><\/div><p class=\"byj-cap\"><\/p><\/div><div class=\"byj-text\"><p data-f=\"s1417|50|50|1\" data-cap=\"Manast\u0131r Asker\u00ee \u0130dadisi\u2019nin avlusu. Levha 1417.\">Milton Manaki \u00f6mr\u00fc boyunca Mustafa Kemal\u2019in foto\u011fraf\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekti\u011fini tekrarlad\u0131. Buna inanmak i\u00e7in nedeni vard\u0131. Kemal Manast\u0131r Asker\u00ee \u0130dadisi\u2019nde okumu\u015ftu ve karde\u015fler \u015fehirden ge\u00e7en her \u015feyi foto\u011frafl\u0131yordu: \u00f6\u011frencileri, subaylar\u0131, pa\u015falar\u0131, padi\u015fahlar\u0131. Ar\u015fiv ona inand\u0131 ve iki cam levha kay\u0131tlara \u201casker\u00ee idadi \u00f6\u011frencileri, Kemal Atat\u00fcrk\u2019le birlikte\u201d olarak girdi.<\/p><p data-f=\"s515|50|50|1\" data-cap=\"St\u00fcdyoda alt\u0131 gen\u00e7 subay. Levha 515.\">1417 numaral\u0131 cam, bir okul avlusunu g\u00f6steriyor: \u00fcniformal\u0131, fesli, k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7l\u0131 neredeyse elli \u00f6\u011frenci, \u00fc\u00e7 s\u0131ra halinde, camlar\u0131 k\u0131r\u0131k bir binan\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde. 515 numaral\u0131 cam bir st\u00fcdyo portresi: k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7izmelerine dayam\u0131\u015f alt\u0131 gen\u00e7 subay, a\u011f\u0131r bir perde ile \u00e7i\u00e7ekli bir duvar k\u00e2\u011f\u0131d\u0131 aras\u0131nda. Her y\u00fcze, s\u0131ra s\u0131ra bakt\u0131m. Kemal hi\u00e7birinde yok.<\/p><p data-f=\"s515|77|27|3.6\" data-cap=\"\u0130smail Enver, sa\u011f. Levha 515.\">Ba\u015fka biriydi. Basit bir tahminden yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m: o gen\u00e7lerin \u00e7o\u011fu tarihte birer isim olmu\u015ftu. 515 numaral\u0131 cam\u0131n en sa\u011f\u0131ndaki, pencerenin yan\u0131ndaki ince b\u0131y\u0131kl\u0131, dik bak\u0131\u015fl\u0131 subay \u0130smail Enver; sonraki Enver Pa\u015fa, J\u00f6n T\u00fcrklerin \u00f6nderlerinden biri.<\/p><p data-f=\"s1417|18|60.5|4.2\" data-cap=\"\u0130smail Enver, sol. Levha 1417.\">Ayn\u0131 adam 1417 numaral\u0131 camda da, solda, \u00f6\u011frenci s\u0131ralar\u0131ndan biraz ayr\u0131 duruyor.<\/p><p data-f=\"s515|77|27|2.2\">Enver ile Kemal ayn\u0131 y\u0131l, 1881\u2019de do\u011fmu\u015flard\u0131. Ayn\u0131 orduda, da\u011f\u0131lmakta olan ayn\u0131 imparatorlu\u011fun garnizonlar\u0131nda subayd\u0131lar ve gen\u00e7likten beri rakiptiler. Enver \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu sava\u015fa sokacakt\u0131. Kemal onun y\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131ndan T\u00fcrkiye\u2019yi kuracakt\u0131.<\/p><p data-f=\"st1|50|50|1\" data-cap=\"Manast\u0131r istasyonu, 1909.\">Kemal\u2019in foto\u011fraf\u0131 varsa, daha sonra aranmal\u0131yd\u0131: \u00f6\u011frenciler aras\u0131nda de\u011fil, b\u00f6lgeye subay olarak d\u00f6nd\u00fckten sonra. Bu ipucunu Manast\u0131r Ar\u015fivi\u2019ndeki meslekta\u015flar\u0131m Goce, Dimitar ve Maria\u2019ya \u00f6nerdim. Foto\u011fraflar\u0131 onlar buldu.<\/p><p data-f=\"st1|50|62|1.3\">Y\u0131l 1909. 1908 J\u00f6n T\u00fcrk Devrimi padi\u015fah\u0131 anayasay\u0131 yeniden y\u00fcr\u00fcrl\u00fc\u011fe koymaya zorlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. 1909 bahar\u0131ndaki kar\u015f\u0131 devrim Selanik\u2019ten yola \u00e7\u0131kan bir ordu taraf\u0131ndan bast\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, Abd\u00fclhamid tahttan indirilmi\u015fti. \u0130mparatorluk en sayg\u0131n e\u011fitmenini, Alman general Colmar von der Goltz\u2019u, Goltz Pa\u015fa\u2019y\u0131 orduyu yeniden d\u00fczenlemek i\u00e7in geri \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131yordu. Goltz Balkanlardaki garnizonlarda bir tefti\u015f gezisine \u00e7\u0131kar. Manast\u0131r bunlardan biridir ve Manaki karde\u015fler oradad\u0131r.<\/p><p data-f=\"st1|64.4|54|4.2\" data-cap=\"Manast\u0131r istasyonu: \u00f6n s\u0131radaki subay.\">\u0130lk cam: istasyon. Vagon kap\u0131lar\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k, pencerelerde merakl\u0131 ba\u015flar olan bir yolcu treni. \u00d6nde heyet duruyor: uzun kaputlar, kimi koyu, kimi a\u00e7\u0131k renk, fesler, \u00e7izmeler. \u00d6n s\u0131rada, iki \u00fcst r\u00fctbeli subay\u0131n aras\u0131na s\u0131k\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f, ince b\u0131y\u0131kl\u0131, bak\u0131\u015flar\u0131 sabit gen\u00e7 bir subay.<\/p><p data-f=\"tent|54.4|50.4|3\" data-cap=\"Manevra: Colmar von der Goltz, ortada.\">\u0130kinci cam: bir manevra alan\u0131. Arkada, direklerinde flamalar olan b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7ad\u0131rlar; \u00f6nde \u00e7amura bulanm\u0131\u015f \u00e7izmeler. Ortada, g\u00f6zl\u00fckl\u00fc, a\u00e7\u0131k renk kaputlu ya\u015fl\u0131 bir adam: von der Goltz.<\/p><p data-f=\"tent|46.7|50.2|5\" data-cap=\"Manevra: ayn\u0131 subay, ikinci s\u0131rada.\">\u0130kinci s\u0131rada, yar\u0131 gizli, istasyondaki ayn\u0131 y\u00fcz.<\/p><p data-f=\"st3|50|55|1.2\" data-cap=\"Manast\u0131r istasyonu, ayn\u0131 g\u00fcn.\">\u00dc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc cam da ayn\u0131 g\u00fcnden, istasyondan. Pirin\u00e7 \u00e7alg\u0131l\u0131 bir bando treni bekliyor.<\/p><p data-f=\"st3|64.4|55.2|5.5\" data-cap=\"Yanaki Manaki, subaylar\u0131n aras\u0131nda.\">Kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131n aras\u0131nda, subaylar\u0131n aras\u0131nda neredeyse gizlenmi\u015f halde, Yanaki Manaki duruyor. Yanaki foto\u011fraftaysa, makineyi Milton tutuyordu. Demek ki Milton, Mustafa Kemal ad\u0131nda gen\u00e7 bir subay\u0131n perondaki o g\u00fcn, makinesiyle oradayd\u0131. \u00d6mr\u00fc boyunca s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc etti\u011fi foto\u011fraf vard\u0131. Sadece g\u00f6sterdi\u011fi foto\u011fraf de\u011fildi.<\/p><p data-f=\"st1|64.4|54|6\" data-cap=\"Bilirki\u015finin kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u00fcz.\">Bir \u015f\u00fcphe, ne kadar sa\u011flam olursa olsun, \u015f\u00fcphe olarak kal\u0131r. Bir bilirki\u015fi incelemesi istedim. Adli sanat\u00e7\u0131 Aurelian B\u0103dulescu, Manast\u0131r foto\u011fraflar\u0131ndaki y\u00fcz\u00fc Atat\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn kesin portreleriyle kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131: ba\u015f\u0131n bi\u00e7imi, ka\u015flar\u0131n ve kulaklar\u0131n \u00e7izgisi, burun \u00e7izgisi, alt dudak, ka\u015flar aras\u0131ndaki k\u0131r\u0131\u015f\u0131klar. Vard\u0131\u011f\u0131 sonu\u00e7: ayn\u0131 ki\u015fi.<\/p><\/div><\/div><div class=\"byj-after\"><p>Bu sonbahar Manast\u0131r\u2019a trenle gittim; Osmanl\u0131lar\u0131n 1894\u2019te a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131 eski Selanik\u2013Manast\u0131r hatt\u0131yla. Von der Goltz heyeti 1909\u2019da bu hatla gelmi\u015fti; padi\u015fah da iki y\u0131l sonra bu hatla gelecekti. \u0130yi bir hatt\u0131, g\u00fczel trenleri vard\u0131. Bug\u00fcn tren Yunanistan ile Kuzey Makedonya s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndaki Florina\u2019da duruyor. Manast\u0131r\u2019a kalan son yirmi be\u015f kilometrede ne tren var ne de herhangi bir toplu ta\u015f\u0131ma. Son y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n Balkan tarihinin k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir \u00f6zeti: hat kald\u0131, yol koptu.<\/p><p>\u0130stasyon h\u00e2l\u00e2 orada. Ayn\u0131 sar\u0131 bina, pencerelerin \u00e7evresinde ayn\u0131 k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 tu\u011fla kemerler. Duvarda mermer bir levha tarihi hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor: 13 Temmuz 1894.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"byj-trio\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_gara_front.webp\" alt=\"Manast\u0131r istasyonu, 2026\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Manast\u0131r, bir eyl\u00fcl sabah\u0131, 2026.<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_gara_peron_v2.webp\" alt=\"Manast\u0131r istasyonunun peronu\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Peron, ayn\u0131 sabah.<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_gara_placa_v2.webp\" alt=\"Levha: Selanik\u2013Manast\u0131r hatt\u0131, 13 Temmuz 1894\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Temmuz 1894. Eyl\u00fcl 2026.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><p class=\"byj-doc\"><a href=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Expertiza_Ataturk_Badulescu.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Adli bilirki\u015fi raporu \u00b7 Aurelian B\u0103dulescu (PDF)<\/a><\/p><div class=\"byj-pair\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_eu_arhiva.webp\" alt=\"Manast\u0131r Ar\u015fivi, Eyl\u00fcl 2026.\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Manast\u0131r Ar\u015fivi, Eyl\u00fcl 2026\u2019n\u0131n ortas\u0131.<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_eu_camera.webp\" alt=\"Manast\u0131r Ar\u015fivi, Eyl\u00fcl 2026.\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Manast\u0131r Ar\u015fivi, ayn\u0131 eyl\u00fcl g\u00fcn\u00fc, 2026.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><p class=\"byj-coda\">Kuzey Makedonya ve T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den on \u00fc\u00e7 yay\u0131n ke\u015ffi haber yapt\u0131. Manast\u0131r Ar\u015fivi yeni ara\u015ft\u0131rmalar duyurdu.<\/p><\/section><section class=\"byj-ch\" id=\"plovdiv\"><header class=\"byj-head\"><span class=\"byj-no\">03<\/span><span class=\"byj-stamp\">Filibe \u00b7 1916\u20131919<\/span><h2>\u00c7er\u00e7evelerde ne vard\u0131<\/h2><p class=\"byj-where\">Filibe \u00b7 Nisan 2026<\/p><\/header><div class=\"byj-scrolly\"><div class=\"byj-fig\"><div class=\"byj-frame\"><div class=\"byj-stage\"><img data-k=\"p2336\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_2336.webp\" alt=\"Yanaki Manaki i\u00e7 \u00e7ama\u015f\u0131r\u0131yla, portrelerin \u00f6n\u00fcnde, Filibe\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><img data-k=\"p3387\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_3387.webp\" alt=\"Yanaki Manaki tak\u0131m elbiseyle, portrelerin \u00f6n\u00fcnde, Filibe\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><span class=\"byj-ring\"><\/span><\/div><\/div><p class=\"byj-cap\"><\/p><\/div><div class=\"byj-text\"><p data-f=\"p2336|50|50|1\" data-cap=\"Filibe, 1916\u20131919.\">1916\u20131919 aras\u0131nda Yanaki Manaki, o zamanki ad\u0131yla Philippopolis olan Filibe\u2019de ev hapsinde ya\u015fad\u0131. Manast\u0131r\u2019dan, at\u00f6lyesinden, karde\u015finden uzakt\u0131 ve \u015fehirden \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131na izin yoktu. \u00d6mr\u00fcn\u00fc yollarda, makinesi kat\u0131r\u0131n s\u0131rt\u0131nda ge\u00e7irmi\u015f bir adam art\u0131k yolculuk edemiyordu.<\/p><p data-f=\"p2336|45|35|3\" data-cap=\"Birinci hal: i\u00e7 \u00e7ama\u015f\u0131r\u0131yla.\">O y\u0131llardan Manast\u0131r ar\u015fivi onun pek \u00e7ok foto\u011fraf\u0131n\u0131 sakl\u0131yor. Ayn\u0131 yerde \u00e7ekilmi\u015f ikisi, ayn\u0131 adam\u0131n iki hali gibi. \u0130lkinde avluda, portrelerin aras\u0131nda, i\u00e7 \u00e7ama\u015f\u0131r\u0131yla duruyor.<\/p><p data-f=\"p3387|46|38|2.6\" data-cap=\"\u0130kinci hal: tak\u0131m elbiseyle.\">\u0130kincisinde tak\u0131m elbise giymi\u015f, sayg\u0131n bir foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131n\u0131n k\u0131yafetiyle. \u0130kisinde de \u00e7ok keyifli, neredeyse ne\u015feli g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor. Hi\u00e7bir \u015fey g\u00f6zetim alt\u0131ndaki bir adam oldu\u011funu s\u00f6ylemiyor. Tersine, m\u00fc\u015fteri ve u\u011fra\u015f bulmu\u015f birine benziyor. \u00c7evresinde, ta\u015f bir duvara dayal\u0131, b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7er\u00e7eveli portreler var: b\u0131y\u0131kl\u0131 erkekler, y\u00fcksek sa\u00e7 modelli kad\u0131nlar. Filibe\u2019de Yanaki bildi\u011fi i\u015fi yapt\u0131: portre.<\/p><p data-f=\"p3387|50|50|1\">Foto\u011fraflar biliniyordu, ama biyografik belgeler olarak okunmu\u015flard\u0131: s\u00fcrg\u00fcndeki Yanaki. Beni \u00e7er\u00e7eveler ilgilendiriyordu. Onlara Filibe\u2019de, B\u00f6lgesel Etnografya M\u00fczesi\u2019nin etnolo\u011fu Petko Todorov\u2019la birlikte bakt\u0131m ve uzun zamand\u0131r akl\u0131mdan ge\u00e7eni y\u00fcksek sesle s\u00f6yledim: bu portreler burada yap\u0131ld\u0131ysa, baz\u0131lar\u0131 h\u00e2l\u00e2 var olmal\u0131. Petko resme uzun uzun bakt\u0131. \u201cSan\u0131r\u0131m birini g\u00f6rd\u00fcm. Ama emin de\u011filim.\u201d<\/p><p data-f=\"p3387|54.6|36|3.4\" data-cap=\"Yanaki\u2019nin arkas\u0131ndaki \u00e7er\u00e7eve.\">\u0130lk portre o g\u00fcn ortaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. K\u0131sa beyaz sa\u00e7l\u0131, burma b\u0131y\u0131kl\u0131, g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fcnde iki ni\u015fan olan bir adam. Yanaki\u2019nin omzunun yan\u0131ndaki \u00e7er\u00e7evedeki y\u00fcz.<\/p><p data-f=\"p2336|43|32|3.4\" data-cap=\"Kad\u0131n portresinin \u00e7er\u00e7evesi, Yanaki\u2019nin ba\u015f\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131nda.\">\u0130kincisi ertesi g\u00fcn \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131: y\u00fcksek sa\u00e7 modelli bir kad\u0131n. \u0130kisinin de sa\u011f alt k\u00f6\u015fesinde ayn\u0131 m\u00fcrekkepli imza: <em>Manaki<\/em>, \u015fehrin k\u0131salt\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ad\u0131, <em>Phil.<\/em>, ve y\u0131l.<\/p><\/div><\/div><div class=\"byj-trio byj-port\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_barber_found.webp\" alt=\"Portre, bulundu\u011fu haliyle.\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Portre, bulundu\u011fu haliyle.<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_barber.webp\" alt=\"Konstantin Giorgiev Iakumidis, \u00c7ar Ferdinand\u2019\u0131n berberi. \u0130mza: Manaki, Filibe.\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Konstantin Giorgiev Iakumidis, \u00c7ar Ferdinand\u2019\u0131n berberi. \u0130mza: Manaki, Filibe.<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_woman.webp\" alt=\"Kad\u0131n portresi, imza Manaki, Filibe.\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Kad\u0131n portresi, imza Manaki, Filibe.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><div class=\"byj-after\"><p>Adam\u0131n ad\u0131n\u0131 verebiliyoruz: Konstantin Giorgiev Iakumidis, prensin, ard\u0131ndan Bulgaristan \u00c7ar\u0131 Ferdinand\u2019\u0131n berberi; g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fcndeki ni\u015fanlar\u0131 da ondan alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. D\u00fckk\u00e2n\u0131 ba\u015fka bir Manaki foto\u011fraf\u0131nda g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor: vitrinin \u00fcst\u00fcndeki tabelada <em>\u041f\u0440\u0438\u0434\u0432\u043e\u0440\u0435\u043d \u043a\u043e\u0430\u0444\u044c\u043e\u0440<\/em>, yani saray berberi yaz\u0131yor. \u015eehrin antikac\u0131lar\u0131ndan ayn\u0131 insanlar\u0131n g\u00f6r\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc ba\u015fka foto\u011fraflar da sat\u0131n ald\u0131m. Bir y\u00fczy\u0131l boyunca her biri kendi yolundan gitmi\u015fti: evlerden, mirastan, ta\u015f\u0131nmalardan, sava\u015flardan ve rejim de\u011fi\u015fikliklerinden ge\u00e7erek. \u015eimdi ayn\u0131 hik\u00e2yede yeniden bulu\u015fuyorlard\u0131.<\/p><\/div><figure class=\"byj-cmp\"><div class=\"byj-cmp-box\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_plov_azi2.webp\" alt=\"Filibe, 2026\" loading=\"lazy\"><div class=\"byj-cmp-top\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_3289.webp\" alt=\"Filibe, 1916\u20131919\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/div><span class=\"byj-cmp-l\">Filibe, 1916\u20131919<\/span><span class=\"byj-cmp-r\">Filibe, 2026<\/span><input type=\"range\" min=\"0\" max=\"100\" value=\"50\" aria-label=\"Kayd\u0131r\u0131c\u0131y\u0131 \u00e7ekin: saray berberinin soka\u011f\u0131, o zaman ve \u015fimdi.\"><\/div><figcaption>Kayd\u0131r\u0131c\u0131y\u0131 \u00e7ekin: saray berberinin soka\u011f\u0131, o zaman ve \u015fimdi.<\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"byj-after\"><p>Ayn\u0131 sokaktan, ters y\u00f6nde \u00e7ekilmi\u015f bir foto\u011fraf daha var. Yanaki d\u00f6vme demir bir kap\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131nda, ba\u015f\u0131nda \u015fapka, parmakl\u0131klara bir mahk\u00fbm gibi tutunarak duruyor. Kap\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde bir tabela: <em>\u0424\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0433\u0440\u0430\u0444\u0438\u044f<\/em>, foto\u011frafhane. Ev hapsindeki bir adam i\u00e7in bunun \u015faka m\u0131 yoksa itiraf m\u0131 oldu\u011funu s\u00f6ylemek zor. Muhtemelen ikisi birden.<\/p><p>Kap\u0131 yukar\u0131daki resimdeki iki binan\u0131n aras\u0131ndayd\u0131. Parmakl\u0131klar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan kar\u015f\u0131daki ev g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor ve o ev bug\u00fcn de duruyor. Kap\u0131 da h\u00e2l\u00e2 orada, bir kafe ile bir d\u00fckk\u00e2n\u0131n aras\u0131nda: \u015fimdi beyaz, yan\u0131nda bir kahve otomat\u0131.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"byj-solo byj-port\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_5324.webp\" alt=\"Yanaki Manaki at\u00f6lyenin kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131nda, Filibe\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Yanaki Manaki kap\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131nda, Filibe, 1916\u20131919.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><p class=\"byj-coda\">Foto\u011fraf\u0131n arka plan\u0131 art\u0131k dekor de\u011fildi. Kan\u0131t olmu\u015ftu.<\/p><\/section><section class=\"byj-ch\" id=\"sliven\"><header class=\"byj-head\"><span class=\"byj-no\">04<\/span><span class=\"byj-stamp\">\u0130slimye \u00b7 2026<\/span><h2>Da\u011flar uymuyordu<\/h2><p class=\"byj-where\">\u0130slimye \u00b7 Nisan 2026<\/p><\/header><div class=\"byj-scrolly\"><div class=\"byj-fig\"><div class=\"byj-frame\"><div class=\"byj-stage\"><img data-k=\"sl1916\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_sliven1916.webp\" alt=\"Yanaki Manaki\u2019li panorama, Filibe olarak kay\u0131tl\u0131\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><span class=\"byj-ring\"><\/span><\/div><\/div><p class=\"byj-cap\"><\/p><\/div><div class=\"byj-text\"><p data-f=\"sl1916|50|50|1\" data-cap=\"Kay\u0131tta: \u201cFilibe panoramas\u0131\u201d.\">Manast\u0131r ar\u015fivinin kay\u0131t defterinde foto\u011fraf \u201cFilibe panoramas\u0131, \u00f6nde Yanaki\u201d olarak ge\u00e7iyor. Yanaki \u00f6nde duruyor, \u015fehir arkas\u0131nda uzan\u0131yor, ufukta bir da\u011f y\u00fckseliyor. Filibe\u2019de g\u00f6sterdi\u011fim insanlar Filibe oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yledi.<\/p><p data-f=\"sl1916|42|80|2.6\" data-cap=\"Yanaki Manaki, \u00f6nde.\">Ona ger\u00e7ek \u015fehir kar\u015f\u0131mdayken bakt\u0131m ve bir \u015fey uymuyordu. Filibe tepeler \u015fehridir, evlerin aras\u0131nda y\u00fckseltiler vard\u0131r; kayal\u0131k bir duvar\u0131n ete\u011findeki bir \u015fehir de\u011fildir.<\/p><p data-f=\"sl1916|60|22|2.4\" data-cap=\"Ufuktaki da\u011f.\">\u00d6nce bir his oldu, sonra bir \u015f\u00fcphe. Da\u011f\u0131n daha \u00f6nce g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm bir bi\u00e7imi vard\u0131: Sinite Kamani, Mavi Kayalar, \u0130slimye \u015fehrine h\u00e2kim olan k\u00fctle. Onlar\u0131 pandemi y\u0131llar\u0131ndaki yolculuklar\u0131mdan tan\u0131yordum.<\/p><p data-f=\"sl1916|50|55|1.5\">Foto\u011frafla \u0130slimye\u2019ye gittim ve a\u00e7\u0131y\u0131 arad\u0131m. Sosyalist d\u00f6nem apartmanlar\u0131 \u015fehrin siluetini tamamen de\u011fi\u015ftirmi\u015f; ilk bak\u0131\u015fta bug\u00fcnk\u00fc panorama ba\u015fka bir yere benziyor. Kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131r\u0131nca yine de Yanaki\u2019nin resmindeki \u00fc\u00e7 bina, h\u00e2l\u00e2 ayakta, ortaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131; aralar\u0131nda eski saat kulesinin bulundu\u011fu b\u00f6lge de. Foto\u011fraf Filibe\u2019den de\u011fil. \u0130slimye\u2019den.<\/p><\/div><\/div><figure class=\"byj-cmp\"><div class=\"byj-cmp-box\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_sliven2026.webp\" alt=\"\u0130slimye, 2026\" loading=\"lazy\"><div class=\"byj-cmp-top\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_sliven1916.webp\" alt=\"Yanaki Manaki, 1916\u20131919\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/div><span class=\"byj-cmp-l\">Yanaki Manaki, 1916\u20131919<\/span><span class=\"byj-cmp-r\">\u0130slimye, 2026<\/span><input type=\"range\" min=\"0\" max=\"100\" value=\"50\" aria-label=\"Kayd\u0131r\u0131c\u0131y\u0131 \u00e7ekin: Yanaki\u2019nin y\u0131llar\u0131nda \u0130slimye ve bug\u00fcnk\u00fc \u0130slimye.\"><\/div><figcaption>Kayd\u0131r\u0131c\u0131y\u0131 \u00e7ekin: Yanaki\u2019nin y\u0131llar\u0131nda \u0130slimye ve bug\u00fcnk\u00fc \u0130slimye.<\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"byj-after\"><p>Bir bilmece kapan\u0131yor, bir ba\u015fkas\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor. Resm\u00ee olarak 1916\u20131919 aras\u0131nda Yanaki\u2019nin Filibe\u2019den \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131na izin yoktu. Foto\u011fraf makinesiyle y\u00fcz kilometre \u00f6tedeki \u0130slimye\u2019ye nas\u0131l gitti? Belki \u00f6zel bir izin ald\u0131. Belki hen\u00fcz kimsenin bulmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir belge var. Ya da belki, Balkanlarda s\u0131k\u00e7a oldu\u011fu gibi, kural ile ger\u00e7ek aras\u0131ndaki mesafe resm\u00ee belgelerin ima etti\u011finden daha k\u0131sayd\u0131.<\/p><\/div><\/section><section class=\"byj-ch\" id=\"laista\"><header class=\"byj-head\"><span class=\"byj-no\">05<\/span><span class=\"byj-stamp\">Laista \u00b7 1898<\/span><h2>Ayn\u0131 dakika, \u00fc\u00e7 \u00fclkede<\/h2><p class=\"byj-where\">Zagori, 2017 \u00b7 Manast\u0131r, 2024 \u00b7 \u0130ske\u00e7e, 2025\u20132026<\/p><\/header><div class=\"byj-scrolly\"><div class=\"byj-fig\"><div class=\"byj-frame\"><div class=\"byj-stage\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" data-k=\"laista2\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Laista2.webp?ssl=1\" alt=\"Laista meydan\u0131nda panay\u0131r, Papathanasiou ailesinin saklad\u0131\u011f\u0131 foto\u011fraf\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" data-k=\"laista0\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Laista0.webp?ssl=1\" alt=\"Ayn\u0131 sahneyi g\u00f6steren cam negatif par\u00e7as\u0131, Manast\u0131r ar\u015fivi\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><span class=\"byj-ring\"><\/span><\/div><\/div><p class=\"byj-cap\"><\/p><\/div><div class=\"byj-text\"><p data-f=\"laista2|50|50|1\">Ulah\u00e7a ad\u0131yla Laka olan Laista, Zagori da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n en \u0131ss\u0131z k\u00f6y\u00fc. 1900 civar\u0131nda iki binden fazla n\u00fcfusu vard\u0131. Bug\u00fcn k\u0131\u015f\u0131n orada dokuz ki\u015fi ya\u015f\u0131yor. Manaki karde\u015fler k\u00f6y\u00fc iki kez foto\u011fraflad\u0131: geni\u015f bir panorama ve meydanda bir panay\u0131r.<\/p><p data-f=\"laista2|50|40|1.4\">Panoramay\u0131 yakla\u015f\u0131k olarak tarihlemi\u015ftim: 1900 civar\u0131. 2017\u2019de, Laista k\u00f6kenli Atinal\u0131 foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131 Takis Tzimas\u2019a g\u00f6sterdim; o da k\u00f6y\u00fcn dergisinde yay\u0131mlad\u0131. Birka\u00e7 ay sonra dergi B\u00fckre\u015f\u2019e ula\u015ft\u0131 ve foto\u011fraf\u0131n kesin bir y\u0131l\u0131 vard\u0131: 1898. K\u00f6yl\u00fcler evlerinin hangi y\u0131l yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 tek tek biliyordu. Resimde g\u00f6r\u00fcnen ve g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeyen evlere bakarak onu her ar\u015fivden daha kesin tarihlemi\u015flerdi. Tarihini hi\u00e7 yazmam\u0131\u015f bir topluluk onu y\u0131l\u0131 y\u0131l\u0131na hat\u0131rlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p><p data-f=\"laista2|50|60|1.8\" data-cap=\"Papathanasiou ailesinin kopyas\u0131, Laista.\">Panay\u0131r foto\u011fraf\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015fka bir kaderi oldu. K\u00f6yde, Papathanasiou ailesinin evinde, neredeyse ayn\u0131 bir resim saklan\u0131yordu; muhtemelen birka\u00e7 dakika arayla \u00e7ekilmi\u015f, ayn\u0131 insanlar biraz yer de\u011fi\u015ftirmi\u015f.<\/p><p data-f=\"laista0|50|50|1\" data-cap=\"Manast\u0131r\u2019daki negatif par\u00e7as\u0131.\">Sonra, 2024\u2019te, Manast\u0131r ar\u015fivinde ayn\u0131 sahneyi g\u00f6steren k\u0131r\u0131k bir cam negatif par\u00e7as\u0131na rastlad\u0131m. Ayn\u0131 dakikan\u0131n \u00fc\u00e7 foto\u011fraf\u0131, bir y\u00fczy\u0131l boyunca \u00fc\u00e7 \u00fclkede, Romanya, Yunanistan ve Kuzey Makedonya\u2019da, birbirinden habersiz saklanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p><\/div><\/div><div class=\"byj-trio\"><figure><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Laista0.webp?ssl=1\" alt=\"Manast\u0131r\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Manast\u0131r<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Laista1.webp?ssl=1\" alt=\"Ayn\u0131 sahnenin ba\u015fka bir hali\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Ayn\u0131 sahnenin ba\u015fka bir hali<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Laista2.webp?ssl=1\" alt=\"Laista, Papathanasiou ailesi\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>Laista, Papathanasiou ailesi<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><div class=\"byj-after\"><p>Laista do\u011fumlu Chariklia Margaritopoulou Han\u0131m\u2019la Kas\u0131m 2025\u2019te \u0130ske\u00e7e\u2019de tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. Ona \u00e7ok \u00f6nce e-posta yazm\u0131\u015ft\u0131m, cevap gelmemi\u015fti. Cevap tam da tesad\u00fcfen \u015fehirde bulundu\u011fum tek g\u00fcnde geldi; \u00dcsk\u00fcp ile \u0130stanbul aras\u0131ndaki yolda, sergiyi ta\u015f\u0131yordum. Bir aile sand\u0131\u011f\u0131ndaki k\u00e2\u011f\u0131tlardan yola \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f, k\u00f6y\u00fcn d\u00fcnyaya da\u011f\u0131lm\u0131\u015f aileleri \u00fczerine kal\u0131n bir kitap yazm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. \u00c7ocukken Grevena\u2019dan Laista\u2019ya at s\u0131rt\u0131nda giderdi; Pindos ormanlar\u0131nda iki g\u00fcnl\u00fck yol.<\/p><p>\u015eubat 2026\u2019da, \u0130ske\u00e7e Karnaval\u0131\u2019n\u0131n ertesi g\u00fcn\u00fc, B\u00fcy\u00fck Perhiz\u2019in ilk g\u00fcn\u00fcnde yeniden bulu\u015ftuk; Yunan gelene\u011finin gerektirdi\u011fi gibi lagana ve pek \u00e7ok \u00e7e\u015fit helvayla. Birka\u00e7 g\u00fcn sonra \u00f6ld\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc \u00f6\u011frendim.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"byj-wide\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_xanthi.webp\" alt=\"\u0130ske\u00e7e, 23 \u015eubat 2026. Chariklia Margaritopoulou Han\u0131m, ortada.\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>\u0130ske\u00e7e, 23 \u015eubat 2026. Chariklia Margaritopoulou Han\u0131m, ortada.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/section><section class=\"byj-ch\" id=\"korce\"><header class=\"byj-head\"><span class=\"byj-no\">06<\/span><span class=\"byj-stamp\">G\u00f6rice \u00b7 2025<\/span><h2>Bir \u00e7an kulesi ve bir kule<\/h2><p class=\"byj-where\">G\u00f6rice \u00b7 Ekim 2025<\/p><\/header><div class=\"byj-scrolly\"><div class=\"byj-fig\"><div class=\"byj-frame\"><div class=\"byj-stage\"><img data-k=\"k1900\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_korce_1900.webp\" alt=\"G\u00f6rice yukar\u0131dan, Manaki karde\u015flerin foto\u011fraf\u0131\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><img data-k=\"kazi\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_korce_azi7193.webp\" alt=\"G\u00f6rice bug\u00fcn, ayn\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131dan\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><img data-k=\"kcontur\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_korce_contur.webp\" alt=\"Aziz Yorgi Kilisesi\u2019nin kald\u0131r\u0131mdaki d\u0131\u015f hatlar\u0131\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><span class=\"byj-ring\"><\/span><\/div><\/div><p class=\"byj-cap\"><\/p><\/div><div class=\"byj-text\"><p data-f=\"k1900|50|50|1\" data-cap=\"G\u00f6rice, 20. y\u00fczy\u0131l ba\u015f\u0131. Cam negatif, Manaki ar\u015fivi, Manast\u0131r.\">Milton\u2019un foto\u011fraf\u0131 G\u00f6rice\u2019yi yukar\u0131dan g\u00f6steriyor: kiremit \u00e7at\u0131lar, avlular, tepeye do\u011fru t\u0131rmanan d\u00fcz sokaklar ve en arkada, \u00e7\u0131plak da\u011f\u0131n alt\u0131nda, Arnavutluk\u2019un en eski camilerinden Mirahor Camii\u2019nin minaresi. \u0130lk bak\u0131\u015fta bir dronla \u00e7ekilmi\u015f gibi.<\/p><p data-f=\"k1900|31|31|3.4\" data-cap=\"Mirahor Camii\u2019nin minaresi.\">Nereden \u00e7ekildi\u011fini merak ettim. A\u00e7\u0131 pek se\u00e7enek b\u0131rakm\u0131yor. 1900 civar\u0131nda G\u00f6rice\u2019de bu kadar y\u00fcksek bir bina yoktu. Foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131y\u0131 \u00e7at\u0131lar\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcne \u00e7\u0131karabilecek tek bir yer vard\u0131: 1905\u2019te tamamlanan Aziz Yorgi Kilisesi\u2019nin \u00e7an kulesi.<\/p><p data-f=\"kazi|50|50|1\" data-cap=\"G\u00f6rice, Ekim 2025.\">Kilise art\u0131k yok. 1960\u2019lar\u0131n sonunda kom\u00fcnist rejim, k\u00fct\u00fcphaneye yer a\u00e7mak i\u00e7in onu y\u0131kt\u0131. Foto\u011fraf\u0131 yak\u0131nlarda kalan tek y\u00fcksek noktadan, ayn\u0131 d\u00f6nemde birka\u00e7 on metre \u00f6tede yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir kuleden yeniden \u00e7ektim. Solda Mirahor Camii\u2019nin minaresi yine g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor; \u00f6nde 1970\u2019lerin apartmanlar\u0131. Bir \u00e7an kulesinin yerini bir kule alm\u0131\u015f. \u015eehir tan\u0131n\u0131yor, ama minare ba\u015fka: o da Enver Hoca rejimi d\u00f6neminde y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, 2014\u2019te yeniden yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p><p data-f=\"kcontur|50|52|1\" data-cap=\"Kilisenin kald\u0131r\u0131ma \u00e7izilmi\u015f d\u0131\u015f hatlar\u0131.\">Yukar\u0131dan, ayn\u0131 kuleden, kilisenin izini de g\u00f6rd\u00fcm. D\u0131\u015f hatlar\u0131 bug\u00fcn soka\u011f\u0131n kald\u0131r\u0131m\u0131na beyaz ta\u015fla \u00e7izilmi\u015f, apsisi ve duvarlar\u0131yla, bir mimar plan\u0131 gibi. Her g\u00fcn biri oraya bir kandil yak\u0131yor; bir y\u00fczy\u0131l \u00f6nce \u00e7an kulesine s\u0131rt\u0131nda makinesiyle bir Ulah foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131 kilisenin yerine.<\/p><\/div><\/div><figure class=\"byj-cmp\"><div class=\"byj-cmp-box\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_korce_azi7193.webp\" alt=\"G\u00f6rice, 2025\" loading=\"lazy\"><div class=\"byj-cmp-top\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_korce_1900.webp\" alt=\"G\u00f6rice, 1905 sonras\u0131\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/div><span class=\"byj-cmp-l\">Manaki karde\u015fler<\/span><span class=\"byj-cmp-r\">G\u00f6rice, 2025<\/span><input type=\"range\" min=\"0\" max=\"100\" value=\"50\" aria-label=\"G\u00f6rice o zaman ve \u015fimdi\"><\/div><figcaption>Kayd\u0131r\u0131c\u0131y\u0131 \u00e7ekin: yok olan \u00e7an kulesinden G\u00f6rice ve bug\u00fcnk\u00fc kuleden G\u00f6rice.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/section><section class=\"byj-ch\" id=\"bitola-1911\"><header class=\"byj-head\"><span class=\"byj-no\">07<\/span><span class=\"byj-stamp\">Manast\u0131r \u00b7 1911<\/span><h2>Tek bir ziyaret i\u00e7in bir ev<\/h2><p class=\"byj-where\">Manast\u0131r \u00b7 Kas\u0131m 2025<\/p><\/header><div class=\"byj-scrolly\"><div class=\"byj-fig\"><div class=\"byj-frame\"><div class=\"byj-stage\"><img data-k=\"su1911\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_sultan1911.webp\" alt=\"Sultan V. Mehmed Re\u015fad Manast\u0131r\u2019da, 1911\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><img data-k=\"suazi\" src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_sultan_azi.webp\" alt=\"Binan\u0131n bug\u00fcnk\u00fc hali, Ar\u015fiv\u2019in penceresinden\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"><span class=\"byj-ring\"><\/span><\/div><\/div><p class=\"byj-cap\"><\/p><\/div><div class=\"byj-text\"><p data-f=\"suazi|50|45|1\" data-cap=\"Bug\u00fcn: \u00fcniversitenin rekt\u00f6rl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc.\">Onu Ar\u015fiv\u2019in penceresinden, k\u00f6knarlar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan foto\u011fraflad\u0131m. Bina tek bir ziyaret i\u00e7in yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131: 1911 yaz\u0131nda Sultan V. Mehmed Re\u015fad\u2019\u0131n ziyareti. Bir padi\u015fah\u0131n \u0130stanbul\u2019dan h\u00e2l\u00e2 Osmanl\u0131 olan Balkanlara yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 son yolculuktu.<\/p><p data-f=\"su1911|50|50|1\" data-cap=\"Manast\u0131r, 1911 yaz\u0131.\">Manaki karde\u015fler evin \u00f6n\u00fcndeki t\u00f6reni foto\u011fraflad\u0131: protokol titizli\u011fiyle, her biri yerinde dizilmi\u015f subaylar, memurlar ve e\u015fraf. Kendinden emin g\u00f6r\u00fcnen bir d\u00fczenin resmi. Bir y\u0131l sonra Birinci Balkan Sava\u015f\u0131 ba\u015flad\u0131 ve Manast\u0131r \u0130mparatorlu\u011fun ilk kaybetti\u011fi \u015fehirler aras\u0131ndayd\u0131.<\/p><p data-f=\"su1911|58|40|1.8\" data-cap=\"Neoklasik cephe.\">Ev bug\u00fcn \u00fcniversitenin rekt\u00f6rl\u00fck binas\u0131. Cephe neoklasik, Avrupai; d\u00f6nemin siyasi zevkinin istedi\u011fi gibi. Plan ise Osmanl\u0131: i\u00e7e d\u00f6n\u00fck, cephenin ele vermedi\u011fi oda hiyerar\u015fileriyle. D\u0131\u015far\u0131da Avrupa, i\u00e7eride \u0130mparatorluk. B\u00fct\u00fcn \u015fehir gibi.<\/p><p>Karde\u015fler ziyareti filme de ald\u0131: padi\u015fah\u0131, alay\u0131, sokaklardaki kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131. Bir y\u0131l i\u00e7inde yok olacak bir d\u00fcnyadan birka\u00e7 saniyelik film.<\/p><\/div><\/div><figure class=\"byj-film\"><video src=\"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/j_sultan.mp4\" muted loop playsinline preload=\"metadata\"><\/video><figcaption>Sultan V. Mehmed Re\u015fad\u2019\u0131n Manast\u0131r ziyareti, 1911. Manaki karde\u015flerin filmi. Kaynak: Kuzey Makedonya Sinematek\u2019i.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/section><footer class=\"byj-end\"><p>G\u00fcnl\u00fck devam ediyor. Yeni ke\u015fifler geldik\u00e7e burada yer al\u0131yor.<\/p><\/footer><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ar\u015fiv ve saha g\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc Arka plan ne g\u00f6steriyor Manaki karde\u015flerin foto\u011fraflar\u0131 \u00e7er\u00e7evede bitmiyor. Arka plandaki bir ayr\u0131nt\u0131 bir soru soruyor. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1444,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"page-builder","ast-site-content-layout":"full-width-container","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"disabled","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"disabled","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"default","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-1409","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"translation":{"provider":"WPGlobus","version":"3.0.6","language":"tr","enabled_languages":["en","ro","el","sq","mk","tr","bg","ka"],"languages":{"en":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"ro":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"el":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"sq":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"mk":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"tr":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"bg":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"ka":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false}}},"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1409","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1409"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1409\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1489,"href":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1409\/revisions\/1489"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1444"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/beyondyesterday.org\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1409"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}